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- Providing strategic shade allows you to grow a wider diversity of plants successfully. Shading your beds can also help retain soil moisture, protect pollinators, and prevent bolting in cool-season crops. Follow these 12 techniques to add flexible shade solutions to your raised garden beds.
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- Using a wrong-sized bed. Whether you're learning how to grow potatoes or another crop, the size of the bed will make a big difference to your yield – and the ease of gardening in a raised bed.
- Skipping the planning stage. 'When you skip the planning stage, you risk placing your raised bed in the shade or facing a sub-optimal direction, reducing sunlight exposure for your plants,' warns Emma Loker from DIY Garden.
- Choosing the wrong location for your bed. This one seems simple, but Gardener Scott says many gardeners make this mistake. Garden beds are 'not magical,' he reiterates: they can't 'overcome the wrong spot.
- Not leaving enough space between garden beds. It may be tempting to have your garden beds neat and close to each other, but this will make moving between them difficult.
- Raised Beds are too wide. One of the biggest benefits of raised bed gardening is avoiding soil compaction. You want to be able to work in your garden beds without stepping on them.
- You don’t plan for irrigation. Unless you want to hand-water your raised beds with a watering can (and that will get old quick), you need to plan ahead of time how you will irrigate the beds.
- Wood (or other material) is Unsafe. Though you will find a myriad of speculation about the safety of certain pressure-treated wood for use in raised beds, most experts agree on this: do not use pressure-treated wood manufactured prior to 2003.
- Raised Bed Garden Soil Lacks Nutrients ⬅ Insufficient nutrients in raised bed soil is probably the most common mistake I see. But when you get it right, the vegetables in your raised beds will thrive.
Jun 20, 2024 · Shade plants work well in raised beds with particular attention to shade preferences, mature size, and soil volume. For large specimens, make sure the bed size is suitable for accommodating established roots, and take care not to overcrowd plants for the best air circulation.
- Location
- Materials
- Size and Shape
- Seating
- Plants
- Drainage
- Compost
- Watering
- Feeding
- Topping Up
The location of your raised bed will affect what you can grow in it. Think about how much sun the bed will receive and plant accordingly. Lots of plants can be grown in sun and shade, though areas of deep shadewill limit you more. Raised beds next to fences and walls may be in a rain shadow, and so require more watering.
You can construct your raised beds from a variety of materials. Scaffold boards are one of the easiest and cheapest options, but they won't last as long as, say, wooden sleepers. Find out more about the different woods to use for raised beds. Other materials to use for raised beds include breeze blocks, sheet metal and gabions.
Avoid stepping on the soil in your raised beds when weeding or harvesting - a maximum width of 1.5m metres is about right. The depth of a scaffold board is fine for growing veg, but more depth is needed for shrubs, perennials and bulbs. Beds don't have to be square or rectangular - they can be L-shaped or curved, too.
If you want to sit on the edge of your raised bed, it should be around 40-50cm high. A wall 10cm wide will make a good perch, but go for 20cm wide or more for comfort.
This particularly applies to plants that have more specific growing requirements, such as plants that like acid or alkaline soil. Acid lovers will need to be grown in ericaceous compost, whereas alkaline lovers will benefit from the addition of some mushroom compost. Discover plants for acid soil and alkaline soil.
If your raised bed is on top of an existing border or lawn, you don't need to worry about drainage as any excess water will seep away. If your bedis on top of concrete or paving, you should add drainage in the form of rubble, stones or crocks at the base.
For most plants, fill your raised bed with a well-mixed combination of organic matter (i.e. well-rotted manure), sharp sand and topsoil, at a ratio of 3:2:7. Specialist beds, for example those for growing bulbs or alpines, will need grittier mixes for extra drainage.
Raised beds can dry out more quickly than topsoil in the garden, so be sure to keep on top of watering. Alternatively, you could install a drip irrigation system as a low-maintenance alternative.
Consider long-term feeding with a slow-release fertiliser at the outset, then top up with a liquid feed through the season if needed. Soil-based mixes are more efficient at holding onto nutrients than lighter planting mediums.
Fill the beds right to the top, then leave for two weeks to settle before planting. Over time, the compost in your raised beds will compact, leading to a tall brim around the edge that can shade the plants within. Top it back up where possible.
- BBC Gardeners' World Magazine
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Shade leads to lower sugar production and reduced growth and flowering and ultimately, in plants ill adapted to shade, death. Plants can ‘measure’ shade by using pigments that can detect far red and blue light and modify their growth habit in proportion to the degree of shade.
