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- As a wave comes into shore, the water ‘feels’ the bottom which slows down the wave. So the shallower parts of the wave slow down more than the parts that are further from the shore. This makes the wave ‘bend’, which is called refraction. The way that waves bend as they come into shore either concentrates wave energy or disperses it.
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Learn about and revise coastal processes such as weathering and erosion with GCSE Bitesize Geography (Edexcel).
When waves approach the shore they will “touch bottom” at a depth equal to half of their wavelength; in other words, when the water depth equals the depth of the wave base (Figure 10.3.1). At this point their behavior will begin to be influenced by the bottom.
Once at the shore they are moved onshore by wave, tide, and wind driven currents to form beaches. A positive sediment supply produces beach accretion while when negative beaches erode (Figure...
When waves reach the shore, deposits like beaches, spits, and barrier islands form in certain areas. Groynes, jetties, breakwaters, and sea walls are structures humans build to protect the shore from the erosion of breaking waves.
Jun 10, 2024 · But what happens when these waves move towards shore and encounter shallow water? Remember that in deep water, a wave’s speed depends on its wavelength, but in shallow water wave speed depends on the depth (section 10.1).
Lesson Summary. Waves in the ocean are what we see as energy travels through the water. The energy of waves produces erosional formations like cliffs, wave cut platforms, sea arches, and sea stacks. When waves reach the shore, deposits like beaches, spits, and barrier islands form in certain areas.
Describe how waves occur, move, and carry energy. Explain wave behavior approaching the shoreline. Describe shoreline features and zones. Describe wave refraction and its contribution to longshore currents and longshore drift. Explain how longshore currents cause the formation of spits and baymouth bars.
