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      • After the wind has blown for a while, the waves get higher from trough to crest, and both the wavelength and period become longer. As the wind continues or strengthens, the water first forms whitecaps and eventually the waves start to break. This is referred to as a fully developed sea.
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  2. Jun 19, 2024 · The water molecules begin to move up and down in a circular orbit, creating a wave crest. This motion propagates energy through the water in the direction of the wind. Once they have enough energy from the wind, these wave crests spread out and begin their journey across the open Ocean as “swells”.

  3. Waves occur when the force of the wind blows over surface water, transferring its energy and causing the water to move in a circular motion.

  4. Though waves do cause the surface water to move, the idea that waves are travelling bodies of water is misleading. Waves are actually energy passing through the water, causing it to move in a circular motion.

  5. Water is propelled around the globe in sweeping currents, waves transfer energy across entire ocean basins, and tides reliably flood and ebb every single day. But why does this occur? Ocean movement is created by the governing principles of physics and chemistry.

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  6. Jun 16, 2024 · Waves transmit energy, not water, and are commonly caused by the wind as it blows across the ocean, lakes, and rivers. Waves caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun are called tides. The ebb and flow of waves and tides are the life force of our world ocean.

  7. Dec 4, 2020 · Not all waves crest on shore the way wind-caused waves do. Big storms can cause storm surges. Underwater earthquakes or mudslides can cause long waves called tsunamis. Storm surges and tsunamis power onto land like a wall of water, wiping out anything in their way.

  8. Feb 17, 2023 · Waves result from energy moving through water, which makes it flow in a circular manner. Various factors, including wind, the Moon, earthquakes , and underwater landslides, cause ocean waves.

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