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- When the deep-water steepness exceeds this limit, steepness-induced wave-breaking (called white-capping) occurs. Only a limited part of the wave energy is dissipated through white-capping.
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3 days ago · earthquake, any sudden shaking of the ground caused by the passage of seismic waves through Earth’s rocks. Seismic waves are produced when some form of energy stored in Earth’s crust is suddenly released, usually when masses of rock straining against one another suddenly fracture and “slip.”
Dec 19, 2021 · These waves begin breaking at a relatively great distance from shore and break gradually (over a distance of 6 to 7 wavelengths) as they approach progressively shallower water. During breaking, a foam line develops at the crest and leaves a thin layer of foam over a considerable distance.
The wave “orbits” are both flattened and slowed by dragging, and the implications are that the wave amplitude (height) increases and the wavelength decreases (the waves become much steeper). The ultimate result of this is that the waves lean forward, and eventually break (Figure 13.5).
Nov 19, 2019 · Waves in the ocean, or on another body of water, are generally started by wind. The wind blows across the surface of the water, pushing the water as it goes. Once the wave reaches a certain size it no longer needs the wind to sustain it. This is similar to pushing a cart along a slight slope.
May 2, 2002 · Wave breaking is a process that is vital to many aspects of air–sea interaction and remote sensing of the oceans. It limits the height of surface waves, transfers momentum flux from waves to...
- W. Kendall Melville, Peter Matusov
- 2002
In fluid dynamics and nautical terminology, a breaking wave or breaker is a wave with enough energy to " break " at its peak, reaching a critical level at which linear energy transforms into wave turbulence energy with a distinct forward curve.
Sep 18, 2024 · The breaking process is the main mechanism for dissipating wave energy in the ocean and affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and the sea. Understanding how...
